Download e-book for kindle: Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol

By Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana

ISBN-10: 0816675791

ISBN-13: 9780816675791

The first within the four-part sequence Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of garments as obvious in the street and in museums, in movies and literature, and in ads and magazines, this quantity incorporates a close-up specialise in accessories—the shoe, the hat, the necklace—intimately attached to the body.
 
These essays, such a lot of that have seemed within the state of the art Italian sequence Abito e Identità, supply new theoretical and ancient takes at the function of garments, gown, and components within the development of the fashionable topic. With contributions by means of major students in artwork heritage, semiotics, literary and picture reports, historical past and model experiences, and with extra writings via psychoanalysts, cloth artists, and style designers from Europe and the USA, readers will come upon a dizzying array of principles concerning the smooth physique and the ways that we costume it.
 
From views at the “model physique” to Sonia Delaunay’s designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women’s prescribed methods of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck’s anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sandals, from a poet’s tiara to a worker’s cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow famous person: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how a lot the main modest accent may reveal.
 
Contributors: Zsófia Bán, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, la; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome 3; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of latest Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome 3; Franca Zoccoli.

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A dialogue always implies a distance, in some cases even a diƒerence. This genealogy can be traced back to the French Revolution and the end of the ancien régime. ” Then, during the second half of the century, the debate about the artistic dignity of modern dress already signaled a world where body and dress play separate roles. Precisely at this juncture, fashion’s model bodies make their professional appearance. We recapture an echo of the radical change in self-perception produced by the presence of the mediating body of the model on the scene of fashion in Oscar Wilde’s lecture “The Relation of Dress to Art,” delivered in 1885 as a rejoinder to a previous talk by James Whistler on the use of color in portraiture.

At this crossing, aesthetics, literary theory, arthistorical disciplines, and now fashion theory talk to and cross-fertilize each other. 7. Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion (London: Routledge, 1994), 70. 8. Marshall McLuhan, The Mechanical Bride: Folklore of Industrial Man (New York: Vanguard, 1951), 94. 9. Caroline Evans, “Multiple, Movement, Model, Mode: The Mannequin Parade, 1900–1929,” in Fashion and Modernity, ed. Christopher Breward and Caroline Evans (Oxford: Berg, 2005), 125–45.

In 1921, she invented the robe-poem, a garment stenciled with poetic verses, following the tradition of Apollinaire’s Calligrammes. This project indicates her desire to conceive fashion as a means of making the female body speak. She wanted to push the inner self, the personality of the wearer, to the surface to make it visible, readable, as it interacted with colors and words. 3 3 While Delaunay stopped making clothes at the outbreak of the Great Depression, in 1937 Elsa Schiaparelli picked CRISTINA GIORCELLI / 40 up Delaunay’s innovation: she sewed with beads a “poem” by Jean Cocteau on an evening gown.

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Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana


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